Having just spent a few days on the Isle of Rum with my teenage daughter, I’m here to share our experience and bring you up-to-date information on things to do on the Isle of Rum and answer questions like, “Is Kinloch Castle open?”, “Where can I stay on Rum?”, “How do I get to Rum?” and “What are the best things to do on the Isle of Rum?”
The Isle of Rum offers spectacular scenery, interesting geology, a range of walks, fascinating wildlife and historical sites. It also offers peace and tranquillity and a place to leave the busy world on the mainland behind and truly unwind.
Whether you’re planning a day trip or a longer stay, this post will guide you through the best places to visit and where to stay, from budget-friendly bunkhouses and campsites to cosy cabins and bed and breakfasts. Finally, a quick list will help you get started on your packing.
About the Isle of Rum – The largest of the Small Isles
The Isle of Rum is the largest of the Small Isles, with the others being Eigg, Canna and Muck. It is also part of the Inner Hebrides archipelago.
Rum National Nature Reserve (NNR) covers almost the entire island except the small area around Kinloch. Nature Scotland owns the land in the reserve while properties in the Kinloch area are privately owned or belong to The Isle of Rum Community Trust.
In 2007, the local community bought out land and properties in Kinloch from Nature Scotland (or Scottish Natural Heritage as it was known at the time.)
The population of Rum is currently around 40 but the island didn’t always have such a low population. In the early 19th century, nearly 500 people inhabited the island but during the Highland Clearances, most of them were moved to Nova Scotia in Canada. Those who stayed behind were kept on to look after the sheep who replaced the people on the land. Just a few years ago, the population was around 20 and there has been a drive to increase it.
Village of Kinloch
Kinloch is the village where all the inhabitants of Rum live. Sitting on the shores of Loch Scresort, it is also the location of the harbour and has gorgeous views across the bay and to the surrounding hills.
The village consists of a handful of houses, a primary school, a bed and breakfast, a bunkhouse and campsite, a general store and a village hall. However, it is also home to an uninhabited 125-year-old Edwardian castle.
Getting to the Isle of Rum
To get to the Isle of Rum, you’ll need to take a ferry. The main ferry sails from Mallaig on the mainland and the journey takes around an hour and a half on the direct route. You’ll get to enjoy spectacular views of the surrounding islands along the way. The MV Shearwater also sails to Rum from Arisaig on Sundays in July and August.
The CalMac ferry sails to the Isle of Rum on Monday, Wednesday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday. See more on boat trips from Mallaig and Arisaig with prices and timings.
Depending on which day you book, you may also go into harbour at other islands, making it a great way to go island-hopping. You could combine it with a trip to the Isle of Eigg or the Isle of Canna.
To get to Mallaig, you can drive, take a bus from Fort William or book the train journey with spectacular views all the way. You need to book well in advance for the Jacobite steam train, but the normal train service from Fort William to Mallaig provides the same views, with bigger windows and at a much lower cost. Plus, you can go direct from Glasgow or join at stations near Loch Lomond, Glencoe, etc.
As the ferry leaves at around 10am, you might consider booking a night in Mallaig and exploring the area the day before. For a cheaper alternative, book a campsite in Arisaig.
Finally, you can sail to Rum if you have your own boat. Moorings are available to book through Rum Bunkhouse.
Once you reach Mallaig, you can’t take your car to the Isle of Rum unless you have a special permit, but you can park it in the West Bay Car Park for as long as you want. Just pay the parking fee at the machine.
Things to do on the Isle of Rum
Things to do on the Isle of Rum mainly involve walking so be prepared to burn up a few calories!
Hiking and Nature Walks on the Isle of Rum (and mountain biking)
Rum’s diverse landscapes offer stunning views. Explore short trails like the Circular Walk, the uphill Coire Dubh Trail or the short walk to the Otter Hide. Two much longer walks take you across the island on Land Rover tracks to Kilmory and Harris. The tracks aren’t paved but are easy to walk on and follow. They’re also great for mountain bikes.
Northside Nature Walk
Northside Nature Walk is the easiest walk on the Isle of Rum and starts not far from the shop. Follow the sign with an eagle icon. Walk along a track, then turn right through a gate into a field. Going uphill, you’ll pass some friendly ponies.
The path continues up and then veers to the left before eventually turning downhill and left again. Take the left path when you get to the fork at a shed marked Croft 3.
This path takes around an hour and is a pleasant, easy walk through greenery, past the river, with views across the bay. Look out for golden eagles and white-tailed eagles flying above.
Coire Dubh Trail
The Coire Dubh Trail is signposted next to Kinloch Castle. It follows a clear path up the hillside past farm buildings, fields, rivers and waterfalls until you get to a viewpoint with a bench. We weren’t exactly sure where it ended, as there was no clear trail beyond that and we did go further but I’ve no idea if we got to the end!
Near the bench is a gorge where the waterfall flows through. You can continue up to where the waterfall starts at the top, which I’m guessing may be the actual end of the trail. It’s also the source of Kinloch’s hydropower.
However high up you go, there are fantastic views across to the Skye Cuilins, the eastern part of Rum and the mainland, including Mallaig and Knoydart.
The Otter Hide and Old Settlement
A short walk through the woods to the right of the main pier takes you to the Otter Hide. It is enclosed with windows that open fully. Here, you can look out for otters, seals, birds, etc. Sadly, we didn’t spot any otters.
On the way, you pass some old moss-covered houses on either side of the path. Take a few minutes to explore those and imagine what life was like living there.
This is an easy walk on a clear path that takes about 10-15 minutes to get there. However, it isn’t a flat path.
Kilmory
The shorter, easily accessible walk across the island is to Kilmory. The trail is around 8km (5 miles) each way from Kinloch Castle. Although there’s a slight ascent and descent, it’s very easy and suitable for anyone with the stamina to walk 16km.
On the way, you’ll pass a large waterfall on the left and a small hill loch to the right. Other than that, there’s not much to see along the way. Take the lower, right path when you reach a fork in the track. Here, you start to descend, and before long, if it’s a clear day, you’ll catch a glimpse of Skye. (The other track takes you to the west coast of the island and round to Guirdil.)
Kilmory is home to the Red Deer Project, a long-standing behaviour observation and genetic sampling project by the University of Cambridge and more recently, the University of Edinburgh. On my way there, another walker coming back told me there were about 60 deer next to the beach. Unfortunately, by the time I got there, they’d moved on, leaving only evidence of their hoof prints in the sand 😞
As you get near the coast, there is a sign at ground level (semi-covered by growth) to the deer hide on the right. Below the hide is an old settlement and burial ground.
If you continue on the main track, you’ll see a cottage up ahead which belongs to the deer project. Turn right just before that and follow the trodden path down to the beach. It’s quite boggy and marshy so you need waterproof footwear for that part. You’ll most likely have the beach all to yourself unless you’re lucky enough to share it with the deer.
Although I didn’t see the herd on the beach, I did pass a mother with a fawn on a hill and another lone deer en route, both at a distance. If I’d had more time, I’m sure I would have seen more.
Harris
The longer ‘road’ is to Harris on the opposite side of the island. It’s around 13 km each way. Unfortunately, I didn’t get a chance to do this one this time round. If I go back, I’d prefer to do it by bike. The track starts near Kinloch Castle with the Kilmory track.
Harris is where the herd of Highland Cattle and the Rum Ponies can usually be found. The cattle help manage the grasslands by grazing and the ponies bring culled deer down from the hills.
The Bullough Mausoleum is an unexpected sight at Harris and is where John, George and his wife, Monica, are laid to rest. (John was originally buried nearby.)
Guirdil, Dibidil and the Cuillin Ridge
For the more adventurous, Hallival’s ascent and the whole Cuillin ridge are popular walks. These are rough tracks though. We started on a couple of them from the shorter walks just to see what they were like and there was no clear trail. You would need to be fully prepared with maps and other essential gear.
The western path to Dibidil was very boggy and muddy. Once you get there, there is a mountain bothy you can stay in. This trail is around 8-9km. There is also a bothy at Guirdil on the west of the island as well a beach and old settlements.
The toughest walk is the Cuillin Ridge, which is only for advanced climbers. It’s about 8km each way and comes out at Dibidil. It covers six peaks along the ridge and lots of steep slopes.
If you’re venturing on one of the longer walks on the Isle of Rum, make sure you seek advice and let someone know where you’re going. The weather can turn quickly, so make sure you’re well-prepared. Even in good weather, sturdy, waterproof boots are usually needed.
Kinloch Castle
After inheriting the island from his father, Sir George Bullough built Kinloch Castle as a luxury mansion retreat in the late 19th century. It was hardly used before it became a convalescence home for soldiers injured in the Boer War. However, for this, Bullough was awarded a knighthood.
The design blends Scottish baronial architecture with some Edwardian touches.
The castle is now owned by Nature Scotland and, for some years, operated as a hostel with some fun events and tours available to visitors. However, it’s now closed to the public until funding is available to restore it.
You can still visit the grounds and enjoy the castle, the gardens and the fantastic view outside. There is fencing around it, but you can find some spots to peer through the window and get a glimpse into how life was at Kinloch Castle. One room has a huge taxidermied golden eagle in the window.
Opposite Kinloch Castle is a field with some Rum ponies. When we visited, there was an adorable young foal.
You can read more about Kinloch Castle Rum at Kinloch Castle Friends Association.
Rum National Nature Reserve Visitor Centre
On the path to Kinloch, the Rum Visitor Centre is small but free and with lots of information. Here, you can learn about the island’s geology, volcanic origins and other aspects of history, including the Highland Clearances.
Ferry Terminal Information Centre
Stop by the shelter at the ferry terminal to learn lots of interesting information about the Isle of Rum, its wildlife, history and fun facts.
Wildlife Watching
The island’s wide range of habitats includes grasslands, heaths, peatlands, lochs, rivers and burns, cliffs, mountains, pebble beaches and sandy beaches, all of which attract a wide range of wildlife.
While walking through the Rum National Nature Reserve, look out for red deer, golden eagles, white-tailed sea eagles, feral goats, Rum ponies, butterflies and other insects.
The island’s coastline is home to otters, seals and many seabirds. Visit the Otter Hide just 10-15 minutes from the main pier to sit quietly unobserved and watch out for local wildlife.
The island has a large population of around 120,000 Manx Shearwaters during the summer months when they come to meet up with their lifelong partner and nest before returning to South America for the winter. They spend their days at sea and return to land under the cover of the night and a single egg is laid in a burrow, all to avoid predators.
Although puffins nest on the island, you need to go by boat to see them. Both Arisaig Marine and Western Isles Cruises in Mallaig offer day trips to see puffins from May to early July.
Look out for lots of wildflowers, different types of mosses and other plants.
Drift Craft Shop
As you walk around the bay, after Ivy Cottage, there is a small honesty shop selling jewellery, knitwear, crocheted hats, soap and other gifts. All the items are handmade by the local residents and some by primary school children. The shop is unattended, and you can pay in cash directly or by a link, if necessary. If the door seems locked, it may just be closed due to the weather, so give it a try.
Not far from the craft shop is a red phone box. The box is operational but it also serves as a book swap. You are urged to take a book, leave a book and leave a review.
Isle of Rum General Store and Cafe
The Isle of Rum General Store has a reasonable choice of items whether you’re self-catering, looking for snacks or picnic items or need toiletries or other essentials you left at home. Food includes fresh fruit and vegetables, bread, frozen food, refrigerated pies, tins, sweets, etc.
The store doubles as a cafe and serves freshly made coffee, tea and hot chocolate, soup of the day and cones of crispy fries done. You can sit at picnic benches outside and access the free Wi-Fi. The store also serves as the local post office.
The opening times changed daily and tended to fit in with the ferry, so make sure to check as there’s nowhere else to buy food or essentials. The shop has recently been taken over by new owners who plan to develop it further and introduce new services.
The village hall is next door and sometimes events are held there. There are public toilets inside the hall if you need them. Note the maps behind the picnic benches in case you forgot to look at the ones near the harbour.
Kayaking
Paddle along the island’s shores to see its beauty from a different perspective. The loch at Kinloch is quite sheltered and offers great views and chances to spot wildlife. You’ll need to bring your own kayak, though. You can take it along for free on the ferry.
Cycling/mountain biking
Although bikes are not currently available on the island, you can bring your own on the ferry for free. A mountain bike makes it easy to get around. Hopefully, bike rental will be available soon. Keep in mind that the road and paths are pretty rough and bumpy.
Fishing
The island offers opportunities for both sea and freshwater fishing. No permit is needed for sea fishing but you do need one for fishing in lochs and rivers. There are restrictions on which lochs you can fish in, when you can fish and what fish you can keep.
The permit is free and can be obtained from the Isle of Rum General Store or the Natural Nature Reserve Office. Read more on the permit for fishing on the Isle of Rum here.
Photography
Capture the breathtaking landscapes, wildlife and historical sites. If you have a zoom lens, you can get some great shots of deer near Kilmory. If you’re lucky enough to have deer close by, you can get some good ones even with your phone.
What to do on a day trip to the Isle of Rum
You can either set off on one of the long walks across the island or walk around the bay, following the steps below.
For the bay walk, start at the ferry terminal shelter, where you can read more about Rum wildlife and places to visit before setting off along the path toward Kinloch, stopping off at the Nature Reserve Visitor Centre. Continue until you reach a fork and take the path along the shore, stopping off at the craft shop, then continue to the General Store for a coffee or snack.
Next, take either the Northern Trail or the Coire Dubh walk. Depending on which day you sail, you may have time for both. When you get back to the road, stop off for a look at Kinloch Castle before heading back to the pier. If the Bunkhouse is open, drop in to have a look at their shop and grab yourself an Isle of Rum hoodie, T-shirt, hat or tote bag. From the pier, walk down to The Otter Hide.
If you have a mountain bike with you, you would have time to cycle across to Harris instead.
Where to stay on the Isle of Rum
If you’re wondering where to stay on the Isle of Rum, there are a few options, ranging from free to £200 a night, including breakfast and dinner. All paid options have a two-night minimum stay.
Rum Bunkhouse is a great option for groups and solo travellers on a budget. It has shared facilities, including dorms, toilets, showers, a sitting room and a kitchen. It also has a few different room sizes, so you might be able to get a private room for you and your group. Prices per night start at £32.
Choose one of the cosy wooden cabins for something more private but still affordable. Although a mattress pad is provided, you’ll need to take your own sleeping bag or other bedding. The cabin sleeps four and has electricity, USB sockets, wifi, a small camping table, a kettle, cups, a heater when needed and, most importantly, gorgeous views.
We stayed in one of the cabins and loved it. It was roomy with easy access to the shore and places to visit nearby. We paid £60 per night.
The toilets and showers for the cabins are outside on the main path and shared.
Book the Harbour BBQ Hut for a small group sleeping over or for a small gathering of up to 20 people. To book any of this or to find out more, contact Rum Bunkhouse.
Rum campsite is in the same area and offers basic facilities for those who enjoy being closer to nature. Facilities include toilets, hot showers and USB charging. The nightly rate for a tent is £10 and per adult £7.
For those who prefer their creature comforts, the Ivy Cottage Guest House is a family-run guest house with a double or twin room with en-suite bathroom, stunning views and home-cooked vegetarian meals made from local ingredients. A room for two with breakfast and dinner costs £200 per night.
Next door, the Bramble Bothy, is a small but very comfortable, self-catering option, Bramble Bothy is ideal for solo travellers or couples seeking a peaceful retreat. The cost at time of writing was £110 per night. Visit to book Ivy Cottage or the Bramble Bothy.
Stay in one of the free mountain bothies for a more rustic adventure. Mainly used by hillwalkers, these basic shelters are fairly weatherproof but have no facilities or utilities. However, they do provide a unique way to experience the hills.
The Mountain Bothies Association maintains these bothies in Guirdhil and Dibidil. If you plan to stay there, make sure to read up on how to use a bothy and how to leave it ready for the next person.
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Finally, wild camping is also allowed on the island, giving you the ultimate freedom to explore the island’s natural beauty. If you choose this option, non-guests can use the campsite showers for a charge of £5.
For more information and bookings, visit Isle of Rum Accommodation.
Communication on the Isle of Rum
Having visited Canna last year, I was surprised to find a good signal on Rum. We tethered a couple of devices to my mobile and all went well. When I walked across to Kilmory, my daughter stayed behind and I was able to communicate with her on WhatsApp all the way. This may not work going to the west of the island though, and it may depend on your provider. (I’m with EE.)
The village hall has free public Wi-Fi and the bunkhouse has Wi-Fi for guests. The cabins have a trial system, but I didn’t make much attempt to use it, so I can’t comment on it.
Postal services are available at the shop and a working phone box is located near Ivy Cottage in the village.
Geology on the Isle of Rum
The Isle of Rum is also the perfect destination for geology enthusiasts. Its diverse geological features tell the story of a long and tumultuous past.
One of the most striking features is its volcanic landscape, formed millions of years ago by a series of eruptions, creating towering peaks and rugged cliffs. You can see the volcanic rocks in dramatic formations such as the Cuillin Mountains and Dibidil Ridge.
The island is also home to diverse rock types, such as gabbro, granite, and sandstone, shaped by glaciers during the last Ice Age, leaving behind deep valleys now full of lush vegetation and wildlife.
The coastline is just as dramatic, dotted with sea caves, arches and stacks carved out by the force of the sea over millions of years. You may even see signs of ancient marine life embedded in the rocks along the shore.
Learn more about the geology of the Isle of Rum here.
Is the Isle of Rum Worth Visiting?
Well, that all depends on what you’re looking for. If you love going for long walks or just looking for somewhere very quiet to relax with beautiful scenery or can spend hours bird/wildlife-watching, then definitely. If you don’t fit into those categories, a day trip would be enough to explore along the bay.
Serious hillwalkers can easily spend several days exploring the island. We spent three days, but I would have liked an extra day to walk to Harris. Or, more realistically, I’d have liked to cycle over to Harris.
Some of what was happening pre-2020 hasn’t returned yet but I hope it will soon. It would be great to have ranger tours but there isn’t currently a resident ranger. I believe there are also plans to provide bike hire, which will make some parts of the island more accessible. It definitely has lots of potential for more eco-friendly activities.
Other things to know before going to the Isle of Rum
The number of ticks has been on the increase across Scotland recently. Checking yourself regularly is important, even if you don’t go hill-walking. Check yourself daily or every other day. Don’t panic, though. Catching them early eliminates the risk of complications. You can read more on my post on Ticks in Scotland. (And yes, we found ticks on ourselves and our clothing.)
The path is rough and bumpy so if you’re planning on taking young children and a stroller, bear that in mind. Same goes for a normal bicycle and wheels on luggage could possibly get damaged.
The main parts around Kinloch are accessible by wheelchairs made for rough surfaces and the Bunkhouse has accessible facilities.
The season for visiting is generally March to October. The weather can be beautiful, wild or anywhere between at any time of year.
What to pack for a trip to the Isle of Rum
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- Waterproof boots, if you’re planning on doing any walking beyond the main path along the shore and Otter Hide
- Binoculars
- Long trousers, socks and boots or closed shoes if you’re going on walks to protect against ticks, midges, stinging nettles, etc.
- Layers – t-shirts, sweaters/hoodies, jacket, thin waterproof jacket
- Hat to protect against the elements and midges
- Waterproof jacket
- Tick remover (I recently bought this tick removal set on Amazon)
- Smidge midge repellant (You can also buy it at the Rum General Store or order it online here.)
- Power bank so you don’t run out of battery to take photos of all the beautiful scenery and to be able to use maps or GPS if needed. (This is a useful one for camping.)
- Torch if you’re staying on the island
- Book or game for the evenings
- Cash for honesty shops
If you want a good map for walking, buy the OS Explorer map of Rum, Eigg, Muck, Canna and Sanday or subscribe to the OS mobile app. Remember to download them before leaving the mainland.
Personal thoughts on our trip to the Isle of Rum and recommendations
Having been to Eigg and Canna before, at first, I found Rum a bit less accessible in terms of things to do, but, in hindsight, if I had done more research and planning, I’d probably have hired a bike on the mainland and taken it. If you’re a serious walker, it’s perfectly accessible though.
You do need to be more prepared food/equipment-wise than you do on the other isles as you’ll need to make all your own meals unless you’re staying in the guest house. We did know that but just opted for simple food solutions topped up by food from the shop/cafe.
Other than that, we had a great time and enjoyed relaxing in a beautiful spot, going on short walks, watching the ponies and other wildlife and finally, I enjoyed a long walk by myself while my teen stayed behind with the village hall wifi!
The cabin we stayed in was cosy, the area was quiet and we slept extremely well. We both left the island feeling relaxed and refreshed.
My recommendations are to read up before you go, pack your boots, camera, binoculars and Smidge, take time to read the info in the two visitor centres when you arrive and take photos of the maps and info on walks, etc.
Would I go back? Yes, but to make a second trip more worthwhile, I’d get into better condition first, take a mountain bike and proper hill-walking equipment to see more of the island. I’d probably also look for a way to join guided walks for safety. Hopefully by then, there will be bikes available for hire and ranger tours back on.
Wrap-up on Visiting the Isle of Rum
To wrap up, the Isle of Rum is a haven for nature lovers and adventurers. Its landscapes, wildlife and history make it a fascinating destination. Whether you’re planning a day trip or a longer stay, Rum offers a variety of experiences.
In a day, you can explore Kinloch village, enjoy short walks and spot wildlife. Staying longer allows for lengthy hikes, visiting remote areas and fully immersing yourself in the island’s beauty and natural history.
Now you know all the things to do on the Isle of Rum and where to stay, it’s time to get started on planning your visit, whether for a day or more and discover all that Rum has to offer!
If you liked this post, you might also like my posts on the Isle of Canna, the Isle of Eigg and the Knoydart Peninsula. See also Best Things to Do on the Isle of Skye.
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